last week, we had the best meal of our lives. at the kitchen table, we had our own menu chosen for us and presented with perfectly choreographed service. it started with light amuse bouche and became progressively heartier with each course. a symphony in the mouth.
we had 2 sets of beverage pairings that we shared: a wine pairing and a non-alcoholic beverage pairing. when we were in between the non-alcoholic beverage pairings, she poured the "twelve" beverage which was fabulous. created by a group of culinary students in new york, it's a complex mix of savory flavors that seems to enhance every dish. i want a case.
each dish was a constellation of flavors that i would never have associated together, but taken as a whole was an exquisite and surprising explosion for the palate and mind. even more so when paired with the drink. we were particularly impressed with the non-alcoholic beverages - after all, there are professional sommeliers, but who does complex non-alcoholic drinks to pair with food? yet each drink was absolutely amazing. none were cloying, none were too sweet like you might expect from a juice. 1. Presented in a 3 tiered bento box, unlayered at our place. Clockwise from top:
English cucumber with Manila clams & CorianderPeekytoe crab & smoked salmon terrine in a yuzu geleeEffingham oyster with sake & relish
Paired with a sparkling pear & rosemary cider, and a Champagne Laurent Perrier "Brut LP" NV.
2. Cold poached cod cheeks with heirloom tomato relish. That thin chip on top is a thinly dehydrated piece of tomato. I think there were 3 different mushrooms.
Paired with Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blank, Russian River 2008.
3. Lemon Verbena Spoon Bread with Honey & Chervil. The sorbet is chamomile. The texture was like cake crumbles, the flavor exquisitely herbal. Not a fan of chamomile by itself but paired with the verbena bread it was fabulous.
Paired with a pineapple & geranium juice! and a Gruner Veltliner Federspiel "Loibner" Knoll, Wachau 2007. The pineapple and geranium matched incredibly well with all the herbal elements of the dishes - the verbena and chamomile in this dish, and the rose in the next.
4. Confit of sockeye salmon topped with a black tea emulsion, sprinkled with rose bits.
Paired with Ginja Shizuku "Divine Droplets" Junmai Daiginjo-shu, Takasago Shuzo, Hakkaido-ken sake.
5. Rabbit Loin with Swan Creek Farm Ricotta, Vidalia Onion Marmalade & Arugula.
This was the one I got to plate so I remember it the best! First I flicked a white ricotta sauce on the plate. Then they placed a fried ricotta stick on the plate. I scooped a chunky vidalia onion marmalade. They placed they tiniest chops - rabbit - on the plate. I drizzled with veal jus and sprinkled with arugula sprouts & flowers.
Paired with Bourgogne Blank Domaine Chevillon 2006.
6. Tempura of Sardine with Plum Consomme and Spanish chorizo. Note that the "chip" on top of the sardine is actually a chorizo mash very thinly spread out and dehydrated/crisped. There was also chorizo diced into tiny bits.
Paired with roasted garlic and cumin "juice"! Not something you'd sip with your morning paper, but absolutely fabulous with the savory dishes. Also a Riesling "Charta" Barth, Rheingau 2005.
7. Suckling Pig with fuzzy melon & kumquat. The skin was a nice block of crunch. 3 preparations: loin, rib, and belly.
Paired with Terlato Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Russian River 2007.
8. Grilled Cockscomb (!) with ash baked eggplant, green curry & chanterelle mushrooms. The cockscomb was a bit like calamari in texture.
Paired with a smoked seaweed and chervil "juice"! The smokiness enhanced the ash baked eggplant in this dish, and the seaweedness worked well with the next. The wine pairing was a Barbera d'Alba "vigna Martina" Elio Grasso 2005.
9. Japanese Mizutako (baby octopus) with squid ink & rishiri konbu crackers. The smoked seaweed essence paired really well with this dish. The little crispy things sprinkled around the edge were little prawns. I think the foam was seawater foam but we don't recall precisely.
I murmured something to A. about being able to eat the crackers all night long, and almost immediately a plate with two more crackers appeared at my elbow. (just one cracker in this picture - by this time of the evening i had to be reminded to take a picture before i started digging in. not sure if it was because of the wine or because i was dizzy from the sheer spectacle of it all.)
Paired with Etna Rosso "guardiola" Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2007.
10. Crawford Farm Lamb Tongue and Belly with Black Mission Figs & Charred Cinnamon.This was the only dish that was different for the two of us; mine was served on a bed of crushed pistachios,
and his (he had a separate dish because of his nut allergy) had truffle gelees with a crisp made out of mesquite and bean.
The tongue was delicate and tasty. Though I don't think I'll ever eat it again. The lamb belly was possibly one of the best parts of the meal - and I don't even like lamb normally.
Paired with a black tea & fenugreek infused "juice." Also a Bandol "Cuvee Classique" Domaine Tempier 2006.
11. Triple Seared Bison Tenderloin with an Umeboshi emulsion (providing just the meat-tenderizing hint of sourness) & bonito.
Paired with Hourglass "Blueline" Merlot, Napa Valley 2006.
12. Pecorino di Pienza Morchiato with a cracker made with cocoa seed & pequin peppers. on top are the pecorino shavings, on the bottom is a flan-like circle of whey. A lovely transition from savory dishes to the sweet fantasies to come.
Paired with Dios Baco Oloroso. The first sherry that I have actually liked.
I have to put the dessert courses on a separate blog post because there are too many pictures!